Brought to You by Package Costa Rica
June 2007
Traveling
On Top of the World, In Costa Rica
By: Scott Bowers
Editor, The Costa Rica Zine
I want to share with you one of the most incredible experiences I have had in my lifetime. And the great thing is that I was fortunate enough to have it with my daughter who recently came to visit me in Costa Rica. Her name is Michelle and she is eighteen and just graduated and will be off to college very soon. This was our Chirripo adventure.
We set off from San Jose to Perez Zeledon on Wednesday. The plan was to spend the night at a hotel near the trail head so we could get an early start the next day. We arrived in San Gerardo after dark and it was raining. It took us about three hours from San Jose with a couple stops along the way. I had heard about a hotel called Pelicano and sure enough we found it. When we arrived at the gate it opened for us, but there was no one around. We saw a house with the lights on so I went and knocked. An elderly man came to the door and told me in Spanish that someone was on the way to check us in. Sure enough a young fellow named Omar showed up shortly thereafter who spoke good English. He asked if we were making the hike the next day and we told him yes. He checked us into our cabin asking when we would like to have breakfast the next day. We told him 5:30 and he said OK.
The next morning we arose very early and packed our gear. We went down for breakfast. The typical Costa Rican breakfast was excellent and Omar told us that our car would be safe at the hotel. He also offered to drive us to the trailhead and also check us in at the park office. The breakfast was excellent. Also the restaurant is a museum for the woodwork of Omar’s father (the elderly gentlemen who had greeted us the night before). We jumped into Omar’s truck and took off. It was about a two mile drive to the trailhead. By the way Omar also picked us up when we returned the next day and let us use the hotel to shower up before the drive home (now that is Costa Rican hospitality). The cabin cost around $40 for the night and was very comfortable
The hike to the summit of Chirripo is about 20 kilometers (or a little over 12 miles). The trail is difficult and uphill most of the way. The trail itself is full of rocks and mud (especially during the rainy season). It is definitely an endurance test. You have to prepare for it. The first stop along the way was Llano Bonito (about 7 kilometers from the trailhead). There you can refill your canteens and take a little rest. You will probably meet other hikers and can share your pain. There are also toilets, but of the “outhouse” variety. For the hike you need to bring clothes that will keep you warm at Base Crestones (where you will spend the night). It can get very cold there and sometimes even below freezing (the months of Verano….January to April….are the coldest and often vegetation will be iced over in the early mornings). You need to bring food, water and toilet paper. And by all means wear good hiking shoes and bring rain gear.
After refreshing ourselves at Llano Bonito we set off for Base Crestones. The hike from Llano Bonito to Base Crestones is the most difficult with an unrelenting uphill climb. It is 7 kilometers from Llano to Base and then another 5 to 6 to the summit of Chirripo. The hike is amazing in that you pass through so many different tropical environments. At the beginning you are in some pretty dense jungle.
After Llano Bonito the vegetation begins to change and you see trees and rocks with all varieties of musgos or mosses. One of the most interesting areas is called Barba del Viejo because the trees have this reddish brown hanging moss that resembles an old man’s bead. As you keep on heading up you finally get to the point where everything changes. It is if you have past from jungle to desert. Actually I have learned that this area is known as the Paramo.
We finally arrive at Base Crestones completely exhausted but feeling very triumphant to have made it this far. When we walked in there was the ranger sitting there with an elderly couple from Germany. They applauded us and that made us feel very welcome and good. Base Crestones would be our home for the night. It is a building with dorm rooms that have two bunk beds. There is a place to cook and many indoor bathrooms. It is pretty barren but comfortable and believe me after the 14 kilometer hike you will be glad you are there. It was too late in the day to try to make the summit that day and the rain started just as we arrived. So we just settled in for the night.
It got pretty darn cold that night, but you can rent sleeping bags and blankets there so we were comfortable. I recommend renting the sleeping bags and blankets as opposed to bringing your own in order to keep your load light. The way you will normally want to do this to avoid rain and actually survive is to start the hike to Base Crestones early in the morning (which means you will have to spend the night before at a hotel in San Gerardo…and I highly recommend Pelicano, although there are other options). If you start early chances are you will make it to Base before the rain. Then you will spend one or two nights there and make the ascent to the summit early the next morning, again to avoid rain and see the spectacular views unobstructed by clouds.
Early the next morning (around 6:00 Am) we began the ascent to the summit of Chirripo (3820 meters, or about 12,500 feet). There are actually several peaks in the area that you can climb. After all the pain we endured to get to this point I can tell you that both of us felt that it had all been worth it. I do not have words to describe the beauty and majesty of the scenes we saw that morning. I came to Chirripo on somewhat of a spiritual mission and I sure felt closer to God being in this incredible place. It is a good idea to spend two nights at Base Crestones so you will have time to really explore the area and also not be so exhausted for the descent.
One of the most interesting things we saw were the lakes that actually give birth to two rivers. Rio Chirripo Atlantico and Rio Chirripo Pacifico both get their start from these lakes. After about an hour and a half of hiking we got our first glimpse of the summit of Chirripo. We had been told that the last 400 to 500 metes of the hike were straight up, but when we saw it I have to admit I was a bit intimidated but awestruck as well. Michelle flatly told me, Dad I am NOT going to go up there!
I told her that we had come too far to “chicken-out” and after some motivating she finally got up the nerve to make the final ascent to the summit. Finally we reached the summit and the view was breathtaking. You are indeed on top of the world in Costa Rica. They say on a really clear day that you can actually see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from up there. Looking out to the west I could get a glimpse of the Pacific coastline, but there were too many clouds looking to the east to actually see the ocean. Nevertheless I was completely amazed at what I saw.
For anyone who is adventurous and really wants to see the awesome natural beauty that Costa Rica possesses I highly recommend you give Chirripo a try. I caution that this hike is not for smokers (they don’t even allow it anywhere on the trail) and you need to be in pretty good shape to do it. But the gain is well worth the pain. The sense of accomplishment and the incredible beauty you will experience make every meter climbed well worth the effort. I will soon be starting a ministry known as Moment on the Mountain that will be for men who are seeking spiritual renewal and the hike up to the summit of Chirripo will be the climatic event of the week-long adventure. Stay tuned for future blogs and articles from The Costa Rica Zineabout this opportunity.
Investment
Buying or Building in Costa Rica - What you Need to Know
By Roger A. Petersen
Part II: Building
Reprinted with permission from Costa Rica Law.Com
Edited for length by The Costa Rica Zine Editorial Staff
I WANT TO BUILD. WHAT DO I DO?
In order to build in Costa Rica, you will likely face a bureaucratic maze of governmental regulations. The law requires that any application for a construction permit be presented by a licensed architect or engineer. It is therefore advisable to contact a reputable, licensed architect or civil engineer to guide you through the construction process.
WHAT DO ARCHITECTS AND ENGINEERS CHARGE?
All architects and engineers in Costa Rica must be licensed by the Costa Rican Association of Engineers and Architects. This governing body establishes the fee schedule that can be charged by its members. Most fees are based upon a percentage of the value of the construction project. According to the regulations of the CFIA (Reglamento para la Contratación de Servicios de Consultoría en Ingeniería y Arquitectura), the involvement of a licensed architect/engineer in a construction project is separated into two phases. Phase 1 is construction plans and permits and Phase 2 is control and execution.
Phase 1: Construction plans and permits
Construction plans and permits. This phase is further subdivided into several distinct professional services that can be provided to the client by the architect/engineer. The percentages cited below are those that the CFIA has established as minimum chargeable fees.
Preliminary studies (estudios preliminaries): 0.5 percent. These studies may or may not be required, depending on the scope of the project.
Preproject design (anteproyecto): 1.0 to 1.5 percent. Generally, during this stage, the architect/engineer will meet with the client in order to discuss the client's construction requirements. With this information, the architect/engineer will prepare drafts of the proposed construction project for review by the client. These drafts should include site planning and preliminary work drawings. When you contract for this service be sure you agree with your architect/engineer before hand on what he or she is going to provide for you.
Construction plans and technical specifications (planos de construcción y especificaciones técnicas): 4.0 percent. This is one of the most important steps in the overall construction project since execution of the project will depend upon the quality and accuracy of your construction plans. Once you and your architect/engineer have agreed on the layout and design of the project, she or he will begin drafting the plans. In Costa Rica, a complete set of plans should include a site plan, distribution plan, elevation and transversal and longitude perspectives, roof design and drainage, design of footings and support beams, structural plans, electrical design, mechanical and sanitary system design, as well as a plan that details all of the interior finishings of the construction.
Budgeting (presupuesto): 0.5 percent for global budgeting; 1.0 percent for itemized budgeting. Here the architect/engineer prepares a materials list based upon your construction plans and prepares a construction budget for you.
Phase 2: Control and Execution.
This stage involves the actual construction and project supervision. The regulations authorize three kinds of supervisory tasks, each of which requires a larger time investment from the architect/engineer.
Inspection (Inspección): 3 percent of total construction value. Here your architect/engineer will visit the construction site at least once a week and will inspect it to ensure that the plan specifications are being followed by the general contractor. They will also verify the quality of the materials being used and review invoices being presented by the general contractor.
Supervision (Dirección técnica): 5 percent. This requires more direct involvement by the architect/engineer in the day-to-day operation of the project.
Administration (Administración): 12 percent. Here, the architect/engineer takes complete responsibility for the execution and completion of the project.
The option you choose will depend upon the type of project involved, the reliability of your builder/general contractor, and the amount of time you are willing to dedicate to the construction project.
All told, phases 1 and 2 can range from 9 percent to 18 percent of the estimated value of the construction project, depending on the amount of services required. As such, it is common practice to negotiate fees with the architect/engineer. Most, of course, will be eager for your business and, depending on the scope of the project will be willing to work out an agreement tailored to your particular needs. Otherwise, have your Attorney do the negotiating for you to ensure that you will get the best agreement possible.
Before you sign any contract, be sure that you understand the fee structure and know exactly what is and is not included in the fee. Likewise, clearly define the responsibilities that your architect/engineer is going to assume. Do the same thing with your general contractor and any subcontractors.
CONSTRUCTION PERMITS.
Before you purchase a lot with the intent of building on it, you should conduct some preliminary studies on the property to ensure that there won't be a problem obtaining a building permit. First, determine if the lot has basic services such as water, electricity, telephone, and drainage. Second, make sure there are no restrictions placed on the lot that could result in the denial of a construction permit. It will not be enough to check the Public Registry. You should also check the Ministry of Public Works (Ministerio de Obras Públicas y Transporte) for future road construction projects; the Ministry of Health (Ministerio de Salud); the National Institute of Housing and Urban Development (Instituto Nacional de Vivienda y Urbanismo) and the municipality where the property is located (municipalidad). And finally, be aware of any environmental regulation that may affect your construction project, such as national wildlife refuges and areas deemed protected by the forestry Law.
Requests for construction permits are filed with the Permit Reception Office (Oficina Receptora de Permisos de Construcción), which is a centralized office that houses government representatives from MOPT (Ministerio de Obras Públicas y Transportes-roads), INVU (Instituto Nacional de Vivienda y Urbanismo- housing), ICE (Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad-telephone), AYA (Instituto Costarricense de Acueductos y Alcantarillados-water), SNE (Servicio Nacional de Electricidad-electricity), CFIA (Colegio Federado de Ingenieros y Arquitectos), and the Ministry of Health (Ministerio de Salud).
For a single family home that measures more than 70 m2 (735.2 ft.2), the applicant must provide the following documentation: four copies of the construction plans, four copies of the property cadastre plot plan (Plano catastrado), four copies of the permit checklist (hoja de comisión), two copies of your property deed (escritura), one copy of the consulting contract with your architect/engineer (contrato de consultoria), an approval from the water company (AYA) regarding availability of water, and one copy of your electrical design plan approved by SNE. Condominium projects, commercial construction, and urbanization projects all carry additional requirements for obtaining construction permits.
In addition to these requirements, you will need to request a building permit from the municipality in which the property is located. By law it is the municipality that is delegated the responsibility to ensure that all constructions comply with building regulations (Article 1, Construction Law). You can, therefore, expect periodic visits to your construction site by the municipal building inspector, who must certify that the construction is proceeding according to code.
Whether you purchase an existing property or decide to build you dream home, be well informed about the procedures involved.
Tico Style
The Costa Rican Oxcart
History of the Costa Rican Oxcart
This following history was obtained from the information website www.costarica.com. The oxcart, designated National Labor Symbol on March 22, 1988, is a rustic strong vehicle with two compact wheels moved by two oxen. It can easily pass through muddy places, swamps, beaches, hills, curves, rocky mountains, and deep small rivers. The oxcart integrated Costa Rica into international commerce by becoming the main means of export transportation after 1840. The first shipment of coffee to London was transported from the coffee plantations to Costa Rica's main ports by oxcart in 1843. Oxcarts transported coffee to Puntarenas on a small road between 1844 and 1846. After World War II, the oxcart became obsolete due to new inventions. It has been used since then as an ornamental object although some farmers still use it during the coffee harvest season to carry coffee to processing plants in rural areas. Painting oxcarts developed into a form of original Costa Rican art in the early 20th century. Cowherds decided to add life to oxcarts by hand painting them with bright colors and geometrical figures. There are never two oxcarts painted the same. All of them contain changes in color tones and figures. This art has been passed from generation to generation up to the present time. The painted oxcart has become a Costa Rican symbol throughout the world and has promoted economic development through the production of handicrafts in the Costa Rican cities of Sarchí and Puriscal.
The Famous Oxcart Factory of Sarchi.
The Chaverri Oxcart Factory is located in Sarchi, a little town about an hour outside of San Jose. Sarchi is generally known as the cradle of arts and craftsmanship in Costa Rica. The factory was founded in 1903 and since then has been building oxcarts using only the best types of woods, such as laurel, cedar and raintree. For almost a century, four generations of the Chaverri family have been providing this service with a seal of distinction and quality. Still using the original methods of years ago, the factory makes authentic oxcarts that were once used to transport products to Costa Rica’s markets and harbors. A wide variety of products, all crafted by hand, are available for purchase with affordable worldwide shipping is offered. During our visit to the workshop you will have the opportunity to observe and speak with the actual artists who transform the oxcarts into true works of art. The factory also has a restaurant offering a variety of typical Costa Rican cuisine. Your stay in Costa Rica will not be complete without a visit to the Chaverri Oxcart Factory. For more information call Package Costa Rica toll free at 1-866-424-6439.
Advice
Latin Dance in Costa Rica
By: Scott Bowers
Editor, The Costa Rica Zine
One of the great joys of this culture for me is Latin music and dance. Ticos are incredible dancers. I have been to neighboring countries of Nicaragua and Panama and, no offense, to the incredible people of those places; they just don’t have the natural talent for dancing that the Ticos possess, in my humble opinion.
There are three basic dance forms that you will generally find in Costa Rica. They are Salsa, Merengue and Cumbia. Salsa is my favorite. For me it is the sexiest and most fluid of the other dances. However, it is more difficult to learn than Merengue. Merengue is the easiest because basically your lower body is always moving the same way when you dance. If you can learn that (and even most “Gringos” can) then you can dance Merengue. Cumbia is the most difficult of the three dance forms. What makes it even more difficult is the way that Ticos dance Cumbia. No where in Latin America do Latinos dance Cumbia like Ticos. It involves what appears to be a lot of hopping around, which really is more kicking when you actually learn the steps. Also, the spins and other fancy maneuvers in Cumbia make this dance incredible exercise and a joy to watch. Once I was in Dominical at a little place called Roca Verde, which is actually a restaurant that turns into the most happening disco in the area on Saturday nights. I spied this beautiful young Latin lady and was about to ask her to dance when a Tico guy beat me to the punch (the story of my life). Well I was lucky. Because for the next thirty minutes or so I sat mesmerized watching the two of them perform the most incredible display of Cumbia dancing that I had ever seen. It was almost like gymnastics. I don’t believe my Cumbia would have been quite up to the par for this young lady.
Anyway, Latin dancing is a great joy and if you visit the country you should partake. There is a great chain of dance schools called Merecumbe where you can take private classes (about $20 for an hour’s instruction) or group classes. There are schools all over San Jose. My favorite disco in San Jose is Castro’s Bar located in Bario Mexico. They play all the great Latin music and if you don’t feel up to dancing just sit back and watch. They have some incredible dancers there and it is a joy just to sit and observe. The service is excellent too and upstairs in the best Karaoke bar in San Jose (another great Latin cultural pleasure).
If you are interested in setting up dance classes while you are here or getting recommendations or directions to a great disco, please give me a call at Package Costa Rica. Our toll free number (from U.S. or Canada) is 1-866-424-6439.
Pura Vida Mae!
Scott Bowers, Editor