Quetzal in Monteverde Costa Rica

I remember the very first time I visited Monteverde.  An old friend (Yuri) and I drove up there in his compact Hyundai Sedan, which had very little undercarriage clearance.

Certainly it was not meant for off-road activity.

Yuri warned me sternly that it was not the right vehicle for such an adventure.  I told him that the road couldn’t be “that bad.” And after a little cajoling, off we went.

We exited the Pan American Highway onto the road that leads up to the small little pueblo of Santa Elena and at first I thought out loud, you see this road isn’t really all that bad.  Well, said Yuri, we haven’t made it to the bad part.

And he was right.

Finally we hit a stretch that seemed to go on forever and was, as he forewarned, BAD.

Every time one of the large rocks would bang against the undercarriage threatening to puncture the gas tank (which actually happened to me on a different trip….in a 4-wheel drive vehicle no less), Yuri would let go with a string of expletives to remind me that he had “told me so.”

We made it after all, so I could finally say that indeed I had survived the road to Monteverde (as well as Yuri’s threats).

Actually I have been there many times since that fateful adventure.  Yes the road is still bad, but if you do it in the day time (highly recommended) and it is clear you will have a chance to see some incredible views.

So what’s all the hubbub about this little place called Monteverde that is one of the most beloved and oft visited tourist destinations in Costa Rica?

Well here’s how it all started.

During the Korean War in the 1950′s a group of Quakers (a pacifist religious group) decided to flee the U.S. to escape prosecution for draft dodging.  They decided on Costa Rica after they learned that the country had abolished the military (Costa Rica did so in 1948).  Ultimately they settled in the little mountain village of Monteverde. 

The Quakers are still there. In fact they run a very successful factory of dairy products.  You can visit the factory and sample some of their delicious ice cream.

But Monteverde is most famous for the Cloud Forest Reserve.  The cloud forest at Monteverde is one of the most visited parks in the country and is home to a mind-boggling array of plants, insects, birds and mammals.  A guided tour of the reserve is a must as the highly talented naturalist guides know exactly where to show you that hummingbird nest or that tarantula nestled in a hole…things you would never know were even there. 

Monteverde has a rustic mountain ambiance. It’s almost like you’ve been transported to some little town in the Swiss Alps, without the snow of course.

And man is it green!

Costa Rica is known as the green country and Monteverde is a shining example of Costa Rican greenness.

A while back there was some talk about paving that road.  That would be a tragedy. Then no one in the future would have the unique adventure of “surviving” the road to Monteverde.

Monteverde Facts

  • Located in the province of Puntarenas
  • Normal weather is humid, misty and cloudy (59 to 77° Fahrenheit)
  • Cloud Forest Preserve contains largest variety of orchids in the world
  • 161 species of amphibians (including several frogs or toads nearing extinction)
  • 91 species of migratory birds (including the elusive Quetzal)
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